Contrary to popular belief, tomatoes are not the only heirlooms out there. Heirlooms are plants that are grown from seeds that have been passed down through the generations for at least the past 50 years. They must also be open-pollinated, which means they’re pollinated by insects or wind without human intervention.
Your organic vegetable garden wouldn’t be complete without some heirlooms. So grab your shovel and get ready to plant.
Here are six heirlooms we love!
1. Armenian cucumber
This cucumber is also known as yard-long cucumbers or snake melon, because of the cantaloupe-like scent that’s released when sliced. It yields large amounts and turns yellow when ripe. They’re also great for slicing and pickling!
2. Black Diamond Watermelon
It has a blackish green rind that covers its bright red flesh. The seeds are black and can grow to be pretty big. This watermelon is drought resistant and prolific, which means that it produces a lot of “offspring.”
3. Clemson Spineless Green Okra
This plant yields large amounts of pods that should be harvested when they reach three inches long. It will keep growing until the weather cools down during the fall, so it’s possible for them to grow up to 6 feet or taller in warmer areas. It is also a traditional favorite for soups and stews.
4. Early Jersey Wakefield Cabbage
This cabbage is dark green and has a smooth, sweet flavor. It usually harvests pretty early, but is slow to split and bolt. After it matures, it’s best to keep it in the garden for another two to three weeks. It is also really rich in vitamins and minerals.
5. Rutabaga
This plant is grown in the cooler seasons and is desired for its root, the Swedish turnip. It is essentially a natural cross between a cabbage and a turnip, but its yellowish root and smooth leaves differentiate it from an actual turnip.
6. Spaghetti Squash
The squash starts off as white and eventually changes colors to a pale yellow once it matures. It can yield up to four or 5 plants and they will last several weeks after harvesting. This plants it known for its double as a healthy substitute to pasta.
Once your vegetable garden gets growing, don’t forget to feed with an organic fertilizer such as Garden-tone.
https://www.espoma.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Spaghetti-squash.jpg34564608espomahttps://www.espoma.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/espoma-logo340w-1.pngespoma2017-03-23 15:30:062019-05-07 10:03:176 Heirloom Plants We Love
Add mulch, a natural covering on top of soil, to keep moisture in, block weeds and provide added nutrients. But did you also know that mulch is particularly important for tomato plants?
Many tomato plants grow large, heavy fruit. Mulch protects the lowest-growing fruit from resting on the ground and developing rot.
2. Mulch Blocks Weeds
Weeds are usually no problem for tomatoes since the large plants, with their dense foliage, shade out and smother any weeds. However, mulch around staked or trellised plants will keep down those baby weeds, so they won’t rob the plants of water and nutrients.
3. Mulch Saves Water
Staked and trellised plants usually benefit from mulch to save moisture. More exposed to sun and wind than unstaked plants, they lose more water through their leaves. It takes extra effort to provide them with an ample and even supply of moisture, but in dry climates, it’s worth it.
4. Mulch Keeps Plants Clean
A mulch blanket under your plants keeps soil from splashing onto the leaves, which helps prevent disease, something tomatoes are especially prone to.
How to Mulch Tomatoes
Many make the mistake of laying mulch around tomatoes too early. You should wait until late spring or until the ground has really warmed up. Adding mulch will inhibit soil from warming and delay the harvest a few weeks.
Once the soil has warmed, feed your tomatoes again with Tomato-tone. Then spread a 2-3” layer of organic mulch. Be sure to leave 2” of room around the stem so water can reach the roots. Water well.
The Best Organic Mulches for Tomatoes
Shredded Leaves: Composted leaves are great for vegetable gardens because they provide natural weed protection and increase moisture retention.
Grass Clippings: If you apply organic lawn fertilizer, dry grass clippings are a great option. They mat together to protect plants and retain heat.
Straw: Straw makes great mulch for tomatoes. But stay away from hay, as it’s full of seeds. Spread a 3-6” layer around tomatoes.
Newspaper or Cardboard: Newspaper is best for blocking weeds. Cut or tear into strips that fit easily around plants.
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You’re on your way to growing the perfect tomatoes. Once you’ve selected your favorite varieties, planted and cared for the seedlings, all that’s left is to take a bite into your first harvest.
But wait. That tomato doesn’t look so appetizing.
If a dark, water soaked spot has formed on your tomato you may have blossom-end rot. This problem is likely caused by an imbalance of calcium in the plant. You may also see this on peppers, squash, cucumbers and melons. The spot enlarges and darkens rapidly as fruits develop. Large spots will dry out and appear to be leathery.
Tips to Keep Blossom End Rot Away
Maintain consistent soil moisture throughout the growing season. When the weather is dry, water at least twice a week and moisten the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches.
Plant tomatoes in warm soil. Seedlings planted in cold soil are likely to have limited nutrient uptake.
Add a layer of mulch to minimize evaporation and help maintain consistent soil moisture. Remember not to volcano mulch.
The reasons are many as to why the plant may not be able to take up enough calcium to support the fruit, but most lie in the soil. The best way to prevent blossom end rot is to have a soil test done before planting to determine if the soil has adequate calcium.
Other reasons include:
1. Fluctuations in soil moisture
2. Excess of nitrogen in the soil
3. Root damage
4. Soil pH that’s either too high or too low
5. Soil that’s too cold
6. Soil that’s high in salts
Unfortunately there’s no use saving these tomatoes. Pick off damaged fruit as soon as you notice the rot and compost them.
Tomatoes are one of the easiest things to grow in your organic garden. Plant, feed, water and eat!
Yet a few simple tricks will help you be more successful and produce a ton of fruit!
Today’s garden tip: What to do with tomato suckers?
First, let’s determine what tomato suckers are. Then, you can choose whether or not to keep them.
What Are Tomato Suckers?
Tomato suckers are small shoots, or leaves, that sprout out from where the stem and the branch of a tomato plant meet. Although relatively harmless to the plant, suckers don’t serve much of a purpose.
They can, however, draw energy away from the main stems, decreasing tomato growth.
How to Prune Tomato Suckers
Keep a close eye on your tomato plants. Eliminate suckers while they are just a small ½” stem.
Remove by simply snapping them off at the stem. If you need to use a tool, use a sharp pruner blade to make a clean cut.
During peak growing season, pull unnecessary suckers and flowers at least once a week.
Pruning is especially important if you are growing indeterminate tomatoes. This variety produces fruits all season long, as opposed to a single harvest. They require more attention and maintenance in order to encourage growth.
Pruning tomato suckers is one of the keys to a successful harvest.
To Prune or Not To Prune…
Some argue that tomato suckers are beneficial because more leaves can lead to more fruit.
This is true, however, less dense tomato plants may produce larger, juicier tomatoes. (Don’t forget, to also use Espoma Organic Tomato-tone to promote growth of plump tomatoes.)
Removing tomato suckers can also decrease risk of disease caused by prolonged moisture. With fewer leaves, plants receive more air and leaves dry quicker. Fewer leaves also provide fewer places for insects to nest and gnaw.
Because suckers can potentially cause more harm to the garden than good, consider pruning those suckers.
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Everyone loves growing tomatoes. And tomatoes are one of the easiest plants to grow.
This summer, put a new twist on growing tomatoes by adding upside-down tomato planters to your organic vegetable garden.
Growing upside down might seem crazy, but it’s actually the perfect solution for those with limited space.
When choosing a variety, opt for smaller tomatoes like cherry or grape or those best suited for containers. Their small size and light weight prevent them from falling off the vines before they’re ready to eat!
Choose Your Container
Purchase a 5-gallon bucket or container to serve as your planter. Drill a hole about 3” big in the bottom of the bucket. If you’re feeling creative, paint the bucket to match your outdoor décor.
Carefully remove the tomato plant from its pot and loosen the roots from the soil.
Turn the bucket onto its side and put the roots of the plant through the hole. Hold the plant in place while turning the bucket upward.
Fill the bucket halfway with Espoma’s Organic Potting Mix.
Pick a spot to hang your planter that gets at least six hours of sun daily. The container will get heavier as the tomatoes grow, so be sure to choose a sturdy base.
Water your upside-down planter regularly. And fertilize with Espoma’s Tomato-tone, a premium plant food formulated specifically for growing plump and juicy tomatoes.
Watch this Garden Answer video to see how you can DIY your own upside-down planter.
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Have you wondered why heirloom tomatoes taste so much better than those conventional ones from the store?
Conventional tomatoes have been bred for long shelf life, disease resistance, high yield and even for their looks! Some say all the flavor and taste has been bred out of them, too.
So whether you say to-may-to or to-mah-to, we’re here to help you choose the perfect heirloom tomato variety for you.
What is an Heirloom Tomato?
Heirloom tomatoes come from seeds that have been handed down from farmer to farmer for generations for their special characteristics and varieties must be 50 years old at least. Because of this, heirloom tomatoes have minimal disease resistance.
Heirloom varieties are open-pollinated–meaning that the seeds you collect will produce plants almost identical plants year after year. That’s key to their survival.
Many heirlooms have been passed down generation to generation. Seeds, once considered valuable property, traveled country to country in pockets or through letters. Varieties come from Central America, Russia, Italy, Japan, France, Germany and Kentucky. Here are a few of our favorites.
Best Heirloom Tomatoes to Grow
Pink Brandywine– This is hands-down the yummiest and most popular heirloom. Dating back to 1885, these tomatoes ripen late in the season, but delight with huge tomatoes with even bigger flavor. Plus, Pink Brandywine tomatoes grow well in containers.
Growth Type: Indeterminate
Time to Maturity: 85-100 days
Taste and Texture: Intense, full flavor with a rich, velvety texture
Light: Full sun
Plant Size: 4-9’
Spacing: 24-36” apart
Staking: Yes – Cage or stake
Black Cherry – This black, heirloom cherry tomato is somewhat disease resistant and easy to grow – even in containers. The truly striking color makes these cherry tomatoes an instant conversation (or kabob!) starter.
Growth Type: Indeterminate
Time to Maturity: 65-75 days
Taste and Texture: Sweet meets smoky flavor with a meaty texture
Light: Full sun
Plant Size: 5-8’
Spacing: 24-36”
Staking: Yes – Cage or stake
Cherokee Purple – Cherokee purple tomatoes may look eccentric, but boy, do they taste good! Believed to be passed down from Cherokee Indians, this variety produces significantly more tomatoes than other heirlooms.
Growth Type: Indeterminate
Time to Maturity: 75-90 days
Taste and Texture: Sweet, juicy and savory with a thin skin
Light: Full sun
Plant Size: 4-9’
Spacing: 24-36”
Staking: Yes – Cage or stake
Striped German/Old German – This sizzling red and orange tomato looks like a work of art. Slice it open, and you’ll be delighted by its intricate texture and pattern. Also called “Old German,” this sunny tomato produces huge beefsteak tomatoes. It does need constant, proper care to thrive.
Growth Type: Indeterminate
Time to Maturity: 75-85 days
Taste and Texture: Incredibly juicy with a faintly tart flavor and meaty texture
Light: Full sun
Plant Size: 4-8’
Spacing: 24-36”
Staking: Yes – Cage or stake
Wapsipinicon Peach – Bright in color and flavor, these tiny, fuzzy yellow tomatoes make the perfect snack. Named for the Wapsipinicon River in Northeast Iowa around 1890, Wapsipinicon Peach tomatoes are resistant to rot and field blight. Plus, they are quite prolific!
Growth Type: Indeterminate
Time to Maturity: 75-80 days
Taste and Texture: Sweet flavor with little acidity and fuzzy, thin skin
Light: Full sun
Plant Size: 4’
Spacing: 24-36”
Staking: Recommended – Cage or stake
Why Should I Grow Heirlooms?
We believe the flavor of heirlooms is so superior that no garden would be complete without them. Try a variety this year, and we’re sure you will agree. You will be tasting a little bit of history all summer long.
When you’re organic gardening, be sure to feed tomatoes lots of Tomato-tone during the growing season.
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For good reason, tomatoes are the popular kid in the garden. Everyone wants to grow them, but not everyone knows how! So we have collected everything we know about tomatoes – from choosing which tomatoes to grow to how to harvest – and put it in one place!
Have success with Espoma’s Total Guide To Growing Tomatoes!
Best Tomato Varieties for Beginners – Depending on what you’re making and where you live, some tomatoes really are better! With more than 7,500 varieties, you have to know exactly what you’re looking for.
Should I grow heirlooms? – Heirloom tomatoes come from seeds that have been handed down from farmer to farmer for generations for their special characteristics and varieties must be 50 years old at least. Because of this, heirloom tomatoes have minimal disease resistance.
Hybrid tomatoes – With over 7,000 varieties, picking the right tomato to grow can seem overwhelming. If you want your tomato to have it all — flavor, disease resistance, texture and more – try modern, hybrid tomatoes.
Non-Red Tomatoes – When growing tomatoes in your organic garden, you probably envision swathes of red. However, tomatoes were not always red. The earliest varieties were yellow and orange.
Starting tomatoes from seed – In practically no time at all, you can start tomato seeds. The best way to get a head start on growing tomatoes is to start seeds indoors 4-6 weeks before the last spring frost date in your region.
How to start tomato and pepper seeds indoors – The best way to get a head start on growing tomatoes is to start seeds indoors. Whether you’re growing cherry tomatoes or hot peppers, visit your local garden center to pick up supplies.
How to plant tomatoes – Seeing red tomatoes peek through the green leaves in your garden is a true sign that summer is here. The first harvest of the season provides opportunities to finally try those delicious garden-to-table recipes.
Ensuring soil health – Soil, as you may have thought, is not dirt. Healthy soil is a collection of creatures, minerals and living material that holds water and nutrients like a sponge, making them readily available for plants. To continue to grow big, juicy fruits and vegetables, you need to make sure you’re feeding your soil.
Growing tomatoes in containers – Tomatoes grown in portable containers are just as tasty and satisfying as garden grown. Plus, containers are versatile and can easily be moved from one spot to another to suite your gardening needs.
Growing tomatoes upside down – Laura from Garden Answer demonstrates how to make an upside down tomato planter. She uses Espoma’s new liquid fertilizer to give plants the nutrients they need to grow.
Turn your tomato garden upside down – This summer, put a new twist on growing tomatoes by adding upside-down tomato planters to your organic vegetable garden.
Growing tomatoes – To pick the tomatoes best for you, decide if you’d like to snack on tomatoes throughout summer. These are known as Indeterminate. Or if you’d like your crop to ripen at once at the end of summer, select determinate.
Companion Planting for Beginners – Find out how to your plants can help each other in this tutorial with Laura from Garden Answer. She’ll walk you through the basics of what it is, how to get started and how she companion plants in her own garden.
How to fertilize tomatoes – Tomatoes and peppers have big appetites, so they need plenty of organic food. Since plants get all their nutrients from the soil, their all-you-can-eat buffet runs out quick. Feed them right, and they’ll burst full of fresh produce.
3 Ways to Support Tomatoes – Use tomato cages, wood or metal stakes, or a trellis to give plants extra support. It’s really a matter of preference which one you choose. The most important thing is that you’re keeping plants off the ground to avoid pests, diseases and rot.
How to mulch tomato plants – Add mulch, a natural covering on top of soil, to keep moisture in, block weeds and provide added nutrients.
How to prune tomatoes – Tiny tomato seedlings can vigorously turn into huge bushes in no time. In fact, they’ve even been known to bend cages and pull stakes out of the ground!
What are tomato plant suckers? – Tomato suckers are small shoots, or leaves, that sprout out from where the stem and the branch of a tomato plant meet. Although relatively harmless to the plant, suckers don’t serve much of a purpose.
How much water do tomatoes need? – When, and how frequently, you should water your tomato plants depends on the variety, size and location.
6 Secrets to Get The Best Tomatoes – Every tomato has the potential to be great and some extra attention now will pay off big time come harvest. Set the stage for a stellar performance by this year’s crops with these tips.
Blossom end rot – If a dark, water soaked spot has formed on your tomato you may have blossom-end rot. This problem is likely caused by an imbalance of calcium in the plant.
Keep Tomatoes from Cracking and Splitting – Tomatoes split open when the fruit outpaces the growth of the skin — usually after a heavy rain. The bad news: split tomatoes can introduce bacteria into the fruit and cause them to rot.
Protect your plants – 4 common tomato pests – It doesn’t matter if you’re growing hybrids or heirlooms, there are a few pests you don’t want around. Identify harmful pests early before damage is done.
Harvesting tomatoes made easy – Whether you’re cooking, canning, freezing or simply eating your tomatoes raw, you’ll want to pick them at the perfect moment. These harvesting tips will ensure your organic tomatoes are ripe when picked.
Saving tomato seeds – Tomato seeds might be available at the store year-round, but saving your own is satisfying and easy.
Tomato recipes – Make sure to pick tomatoes when they are just right to enjoy with your favorite tomato recipes. These harvesting tips will ensure you get a flavorful tomato every time.
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With over 7,000 varieties, picking the right tomato to grow can seem overwhelming. If you want your tomato to have it all — flavor, disease resistance, texture and more – try modern, hybrid tomatoes.
The term hybrid means tomatoes are bred from two different varieties to get the best traits from each parent. Kind of like you!
Hybrid tomatoes are bred for traits such as long shelf life, disease resistance, high yield and even for their looks. After WWI, hybridization made tomatoes easier to grow, sell and transport to restaurants and grocery stores across the county.
These hybrid varieties can be just as tasty as heirlooms. Especially when fed organically with plenty of Tomato-tone during the growing season.
The Best Hybrid Tomatoes to Grow
Better Boy Tomato
Better Boy – A Guinness Book of World Records champion, yielding nearly 350 pounds of tomatoes from a single plant over one season, Better Boy really is better! This disease-resistant, flavorful and easy-to-grow tomato is a classic with the perfect balance of acid and sugar.
Disease Resistance: F, V, N, T
Growth Type: Indeterminate
Time to Maturity: 70-75 Days
Taste and Texture: Beefsteak
Light: Full Sun
Plant Size: 5-8’
Spacing: 36”
Staking: Yes – cage or stake
Early girl tomato. Photo courtesy of Mika Matsuzaki
Early girl – If you want tomatoes ASAP, this is the plant for you. This disease-resistant and flavorful plant is a favorite of many gardeners. Its little sister, Bush Early Girl, is perfect for growing in containers.
Disease Resistance: F, V
Growth Type: Indeterminate
Time to Maturity: 50 days
Taste and Texture: Meaty with a great aroma
Light: Full sun
Plant Size: 6-8’
Spacing: 36”
Staking: Yes – cage or stake
Juliet Tomato
Juliet – Referred to as a mini roma because of its shape, Juliets are sweet, crack-resistant tomatoes. Long vines continue setting fruit all summer long and can withstand hot temps.
Keep in mind that if you grow hybrids, you’ll have to buy new seeds each year. Seeds from a hybrid tomato are not as strong as their parents.
When growing tomatoes in your organic garden, you probably envision swathes of red. However, tomatoes were not always red. The earliest varieties were yellow and orange.
So whether you say to-may-to or to-mah-to, we’re here to help you choose the perfect non-red tomato variety for you.
Best Non-Red Tomatoes to Grow
You can grow tomatoes in nearly every color of the rainbow.
Yellow Pear Tomato
Yellow Tomatoes
Golden Nugget – These sweet tasting tomatoes love cool weather and can withstand the heat. Looking more like tangerines than tomatoes, Golden Nuggets ripen early and produce lots of fruit.
Yellow Pear – Tangy, beautiful and tiny, Yellow Pear tomatoes look charming in salads or as snacks. A favorite of chefs, these dynamic tomatoes love to sprawl, so contain them with a cage or stake.
Wapsipinicon Peach – Bright in color and flavor, these tiny, fuzzy yellow tomatoes make the perfect snack. Named for the Wapsipinicon River in Northeast Iowa around 1890, Wapsipinicon Peach tomatoes are resistant to rot and field blight. Plus, they are quite prolific!
Sungold Tomatoes
Orange Tomatoes
Sungold – This treat of a tomato is one of the garden’s sweetest. Their bright tangerine-orange color adds a ray of sun to the garden. Plants produce a ton of fruit throughout the entire season. And with their tendency to crack, you won’t find these beauties at any grocery store.
Striped German – This sizzling red and orange tomato looks like a work of art. Slice it open, and you’ll be delighted by its intricate texture and pattern. Also called “Old German,” this sunny tomato produces huge beefsteak tomatoes. It does need constant, proper care to thrive.
Green Tomatoes
Green Zebra – The result of several heirloom tomatoes bred together, these tomatoes can handle rough growing conditions and resist cracking. They have a mellow, sweetish-tart taste with a relatively firm texture. But they are susceptible to blossom-end rot.
Great White Tomato
White Tomatoes
Great White – The best white tomato out there, the Great White produces 1-2 pound tomatoes in a unexpected color with few seeds. It tastes mild and sweet with lots of juice and a meaty, creamy texture. Plus, it’s drought and crack resistant, so it thrives in hot climates.
Go forth, and grow! When you’re organic gardening, be sure to feed tomatoes lots of Tomato-tone during the growing season.
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Know Your Tomatoes: To find just the right tomato for you, answer these five questions before deciding what tomato varieties to grow.
1. How important is disease resistance? Modern, or hybrid, tomatoes are bred to resist diseases. Heirloom tomatoes, on the other hand, are mostly untouched, and can be more susceptible to diseases.
On the plant tag or seed packet, check the letters after the variety name to see how what diseases and pests they can be resistant to. Look for the V and F since they’re the two most common tomato diseases.
Here are the most common tomato codes to look for in order to protect your plants:
V = Verticillium Wilt
F = Fusarium Wilt
N = Nematodes
T = Tobacco Mosaic Virus
A = Alternaria
2. Determinate or indeterminate? Do you want your tomatoes to ripen all at once or all season?
Determinate tomatoes (DET), or bush tomatoes, ripen all at once. Within a week or two, you’ll have one, huge crop of tomatoes. Then, they’re done!
Indeterminate tomatoes (IND), or vine tomatoes, produce tomatoes all season until the first frost.
3. How long is the time to maturity? This number lets you know how long before your tomato seedlings produce their first crop. Some tomatoes mature in 50 days while others take 90 days. Consider how long your growing season is – and when you’d like to bite into that first, homegrown tomato.
4. What flavor and texture do you prefer? The most fun question to answer! Choose acidic or sweet, mealy or meaty and firm or soft skin. Many varieties even list the best uses – sauces, salsa, salads or snacks.
And always remember, feed tomatoes lots of Tomato-tone during the growing season.
5. What’s the difference between heirloom and hybrid tomatoes?
Heirloom tomatoes come from seeds that have been handed down from farmer to farmer for generations for their special characteristics and varieties must be 50 years old at least. Because of this, heirloom tomatoes have minimal disease resistance. Popular varieties include Black Cherry, Brandywine and Cherokee Purple.
Hybrid tomatoes, sometimes called modern tomatoes, are bred from two different varieties to get the best traits from each parent. Traits can include disease resistance or thick skin. Seeds from hybrid tomato plants are essentially sterile since they’ll never be as strong as the parents. Popular varieties include Roma, Early Girl and Beefsteak.
Grow both hybrids and heirlooms to find out which ones you like eating best.
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